It’s November in London. A pretty typical grey and chilly day, with a south-easterly breeze. From the fridge emerge the most beautiful looking plum tomatoes; the perfect complement to my egg and bacon. Some minutes later I am completely underwhelmed by the tomato and I sigh, as I know this is always the case with supermarket tomatoes in November. But then I think again and realise they’re like that practically all year. What can I do?
It’s not the first time that I’ve thought about this. Some years back I was seriously thinking I needed to move to a Mediterranean country in order to experience fresh, ripe tomatoes in summer. The taste difference between a tomato grown locally and in season in Provence, Umbria or Catalunya and one bought in a British supermarket is huge. They are not the same thing by any measure.
One or two memories return of when I learned what a tomato could taste like. In Catalunya the pan con tomate (Pan amb tomàquet) is made using fully ripe local varieties of tomato, full of juice and flavour – I think they are Panjar or Colgar. In western France, on a stop at a local farm house to camp in their field, I bought some tomatoes from their veg patch. Perhaps it was the baguette, perhaps the cheese, but the tomatoes were sensational. Nothing can match these taste experiences.
But what can we do in November in northern climes? The supply chain means we are able to eat tomatoes out of season, so we should be thankful for that, but it also means they are picked before they’re ripe and therefore pretty tasteless.
Looking at the packet my suspicions are confirmed. The ‘Plum tomatoes’ (note, not called Italian Plum Tomatoes) are from Morocco. They’ve had to travel an additional 500-600km from North Africa, rather than the slightly shorter trip from Valencia or closer still, the hop from a Netherlands greenhouse. A longer journey means even less taste I conclude.
Recommended tomato alternatives
Not everyone is a fan, but tinned tomatoes are my go to, especially out of season. Italian Plum Tomatoes are at least picked and packed when ripe. Not all brands are the same, just as not all freshly picked varieties are the same, and again, I suspect the distance and cost plays a part on this. But taste is not necessarily reflected in price. Here is my personal experience:
Aldi Cucina Peeled Plum Tomatoes – best value alternative by a mile. They seem to have a supplier who picks when riper and tastier, and at £0.47p they are one of the cheapest too. As I said, price is not always an indicator of taste.
Sainsbury’s Italian Plum Tomatoes – same price, much more bitter and not good for eating on their own. Might be OK for cooking. I don’t understand how supply chains can be that different, but this is definitely not as good tasting as the Cucina. I have never tried Sainsbury’s Stamford Street Peeled Plum Tomatoes, but will brace myself and give them a go in the interests of fairness.
Napolina Peeled Plum Tomatoes – the leading brand one would say, as Waitrose and most major supermarkets stock them. Great taste and good consistency. As the label says, 100% Italian and in a rich tomato sauce. At £1.00 a tin (£0.75p with Nectar) they are more expensive, but a good alternative to Cucina.
Cirio Pelati Peeled Plum Tomatoes from Puglia – bit of a mouthful that – are OK, but often more expensive and to my taste, not quite so palatable. I should say, that I like tinned tomatoes on toast for breakfast, so I am a bit of a purist.
Other brands are available, but you get my drift.
So, as we await summer, perhaps with a trip to a Mediterranean country in summer, I look forward to the return of fresh tomatoes. In the meantime I am very happy to have good tinned tomatoes. And with so many more varieties to try, I look forward to discovering even more taste. Enjoy!