If blackberries were graded and appreciated as wine are – then this year would surely be one of the finest vintages. A wet early summer and the absence of any long dry and hot spells – much to the dismay of British holiday makers – meant huge amounts of large fruit have been coming into season along the hedgerow. Added to that – no early September frosts have cut short the time to pick the quality fruit.
Perhaps this abundance is the reason so much fruit hangs unpicked – destined to wither and fall as autumn draws in – but I do not think this is the main reason. It is the fact that most people – even most country dwellers are now so removed from the food chain and addicted to time saving convenience foods that they are either unaware of this free organic food or cannot be bothered to pick it.
Blackberries are not the most versatile fruit – although they freeze well. They are normally used as flavouring in our cooking rather then the star attraction and even then there are few dishes featuring this widely available fruit. Only a few come to mind (more below): Blackberry and apple pie and crumble; Blackberry jam; Summer pudding.
This lack of popular recipes might be one of the reasons for lack of interest. The other is the effort required to pick them. But when I think how much I adore just the three dishes above and the ridiculous cost of fresh blackberries from supermarkets it is certainly worthwhile taking the time to collect some myself.
More than that – collecting blackberries along a hedgerow is a great seasonal event which I eagerly await each year. In July and August whilst out walking the dog I cannot help but look out for the young green fruit – calculating when they will ripen and remembering the best spots. It is quite tricky deciding when to go and pick your crop because going too early yields less berries and more time just to pick the ripe fruit (Although you do want the firmer fruits for the best flavour); and too late can mean the prize bushes are stripped in normal years. Worse still – perfectly good fruit can be destroyed by early frosts – which turn them to paste and completely destroy the flavour.
It need only take an hour or so to collect two or three pounds (1.5 kg) of succulent fruit – enough for half a dozen pots of jam or a similar number of Winter crumbles. What’s more – our family consumes at least half a pound whilst out picking and you get a country walk into the bargain. Once home – even more excitement ensues as we argue about whether we want jam there and then – or frozen fruit for use later. (We usually pick six or seven pounds and do both)
It is a wonderful feeling first planning what and when to pick – then making the effort to collect – and then finally preparing what you know are great tasting completely organic dishes. I really do not understand why more people do not venture out in September to share in this free organic ‘food fest’.
With our national network of footpaths – bridle paths and woodlands – there are sure to be several local spots nearby whether one lives in town or in the country. This freedom to roam and the abundance of hedgerows and open areas is a national treasure we should all use in as many ways as possible. It is not the same in Europe – where footpaths are over-planned (Germany) or hedgerows are less bountiful (Spain). True – these countries enjoy foraging for mushrooms and other fruit – but the blackberry and hedgerow are truly British and should be celebrated. We all talk about ‘organic’ this and that – but maybe we have missed the point a bit. No label is required to know where the best organic food comes from!